Tobermory - 01 July 2006 (day 42)

Yacht Gothik

At Anchor

Tobermory

Isle of Mull

Argyll & Bute

30 June 2006

Click here to see a map.

Logged distance: 14M

Chart distance: 15M

Time under way: 3h15m

Saturday 01 July 2006

Today's destination was supposed to be Tiree. Listening to the weather forecast last night it seemed possible, if maybe a little adventurous, so we decided to go for it. We were up early to a bright and still morning, by 0755 had weighed anchor and by 0815 were out of the loch. As soon as we had turned northwards into the Sound of Mull the breeze lifted and we hoisted full sail - goosewinged once again. Very soon however the clouds covered the sun and we donned wellies, wet weather trousers and jackets - not because it was wet, but because it was cold. A mile or so ahead the sun was still shining, however for every mile gained by us the clouds gained another two. We were slipping into a darker, colder, greyer world. The breeze stiffened, but Gothik was still very comfortable downwind under full sail.

0920 and Clyde coastguard came in loud and clear on the VHF radio with an updated weather report. A new low was building in shipping area Shannon, moving quickly to Hebrides with gales (force 8 and above) expected this time tomorrow. Although not unduly serious for today's passage to Tiree this was a significant change from the predictions made in last nights forecast and made me feel a little uncomfortable. Within 20 minutes there was a steady 25 knots of wind with gusts of 30 (force 6, gusting 7) pressing us forward. In the corner of my eye was the entrance to Tobermory Bay, the brightly painted houses winking at me just two miles away forward of the port beam - "That's it chaps! Change of plan".

I talked to Ben and Keith about the weather - I'm English, what else am I supposed to do? They looked at me a little puzzled, Gothik was still under full sail - heavily pressed maybe but riding comfortably. When going downwind one has to add the boat speed to the 'apparent' windspeed to arrive at the 'true' windspeed. Gothik was barrelling along at close to 8 knots so the wind coming over the stern rail felt closer to 17 knots (barely a force 5). There was no sea to speak of since the wind had not yet had the time to build one. All in all everything felt normal in their experience. I explained that as soon as we turned off or into the wind it would be a different story. My main concern was not the weather and sailing in it but the anchorage at Gott Bay, Tiree. The bottom of the bay was sand and weed. Sand will hold an anchor fast but weed tends to prevent it from getting a grip in the first place. The island of Tiree is very low, especially the land that surrounding Gott Bay - the land would therefore offer little shelter from the wind and we would feel the full force of any gale. A dragging anchor is never fun. No, sorry chaps. Tiree is not the place for tonight. Keith and Ben both understood.

Or almost understood. To get the main sail down one has to turn the boat into the wind - I explained that we would get some spray across the deck and the boat would buck around a lot more and to make life easier we reefed the main sail as much as possible before doing so. Ben took position at the mast ready to pull down the main, while Keith took the main sheets ready pull the boom into the centre of the boat as we made our turn. Ben enjoyed himself, Keith was clearly taken by surprise! "Where did all that wind come from?" he later asked. It was the same wind, the same strength and the same waves but we were simply facing into it. 180 degrees makes it feels like mayhem.

The town of Tobermory sits at the north end of a large bay. The bay is very sheltered but with the wind from the south and the bay being so large there were appreciable waves and no protection from the wind. All the boats we could see were bouncing around. Fortunately one does not have to worry about the anchor dragging in Tobermory as there are plenty of moorings for visiting yachtsman. I say 'plenty' of moorings; not today - Tobermory was full. We motored around trying to find a vacant mooring but there were none. Instead we headed for the south end of the bay, furthest from the town, to see if we could anchor in a sheltered spot.

In the lee of the (pretty) tree lined shore at the south end there was little to no wind. Only one other boat was here and it seemed a shame to intrude on what was obviously the only bit of peace and solitude in a very busy place. We dropped anchor as far away from them as possible. Some time later they came over to our boat in their dingy to ask if there were any provisions we would like from town? Now that was a lovely gesture and a little sign that we were not intruding. Keith expressed our gratitude and explained that we had just provisioned in Oban.

Some hours later, several other yachts came and filled the little anchorage. Any desire we had to go ashore in Tobermory started to evaporate quickly - it must be full of yachtsman. Instead we cooked our meals and read our books.